Chemical Exfoliation, Skin Peels and Retinoids: What are they, what are the different kinds and what are their side effects. Educate yourself about these potentially harmful chemicals that are ubiquitous in the anti-aging skincare industry.
Here is a quick-rundown on the different types of chemical exfoliants:
Glycolic acid - Can be derived from sugar, (although in most conventional formulations it is not) brightens complexion, removes wrinkles, tightens pores, erases acne scars, causes sun sensitivity, makes you susceptible to uv sun-damage and skin cancer. Glycolic acid spurs collagen production so this will also give sagging skin a plumping and lifting effect.
Lactic acid – derived from milk, this is why generations ago women put buttermilk on their faces. This is an effective treatment, and either buttermilk or yogurt can be used in this manner. This is the gentlest of the acid peels, it is considered a great starter peel. You can work your way up to tolerance of a stronger peel or just enjoy the benefits of this gentle peel. This is the only peel that I would recommend for melanin-rich skintones as the other ones can cause hyperpigmentation and also the removal of skin pigment. Just like glycolic, lactic acid causes sun sensitivity and uv-damage and skin cancer susceptibility.
Salicylic acid – derived from willow-bark, salicylic acid is a tried and true acne remedy. It also works wonders on wrinkles, scars, impacted pores, blackheads and gives a light-catching smooth look. While long being considered the only chemical exfoliant that doesn’t cause sun sensitivity, salicylic acid has been proven to increase the skin’s sun sensitivity by 50% and may cause hyperpigmentation in melanin-rich skin tones.
Retinoids (retinol and prescription Retin-A): Most everyone has the same initial experience with Retin-A, their skin turns red, burns, dries out, becomes extremely sensitive and many people break out with acne. People invested in the process try and mitigate the side effects with lots of moisture and sunscreen and after a few months they are rewarded with almost a new face, or rather a version of their younger face that they were trying to recapture. The difference between prescription strength Retin-A and retinol available at the drug store or department store cosmetics counter is the strength. Retinol is one chemical reaction removed from prescription strength Retin-A and so not as strong. Retinol products are a great way to build up your tolerance before you use Retin-A or enough on their own to have a huge effect. To be able to put something topically on your skin that will pretty much erase any wrinkle you put it on, purges any blackhead, acne plug, or scar, and also tighten sand plumps your skin far out weights the sun sensitivity and irritation for many die-hard uses. Besides the risks of sun sensitivity, potential for uv damage and skin cancer risk, retinoids are not compatible with other peels. If you are thinking of using other chemical exfoliants or have microdermabrasion done, it’s imperative that you find out how long you need to stop using retinoids before and after the other treatments. When the skin is thinned by the retinoids it cannot take another thinning treatment and can easily be damaged.
UV Damage Risk vs. Outdoor Lifestyle
For me, I stopped using all of these products that cause sun sensitivity upon moving to Southern California because the enjoyment of the outdoors is far greater than a lineless face. If I found myself living somewhere with a dark and gloomy winter than I would go back to using these for a season every year. So it’s really a personal tradeoff. If you are going through a round of chemical peels, I would suggest using my Awakening face oil both in the morning and in the evening. The Repose night oil has rosehip seed oil in it that is the only naturally occurring source of retinol, so you don’t need to extra retinol if you are using a man-made chemical version. I sell products that gently turn over your skin and combat the signs of aging, but if you are using retin-a or getting peels done, my products will help deliver the rich, deeply hydrating moisture you need while healing, and will help reduce the irritation from the treatments. So rather than being incompatible with more aggressive and un-natural treatments my natural products can help you deal with their side effects and hold your gains.
I choose not to offer chemical peels because they do not fit into my metric of natural and healthy, but I want people to be aware of the different treatments available and their side effects. By following the skincare routine that I suggest I think you will find that your healthy, non-irritated skin will beam with a radiant beauty and will not need to resort to such harsh and potentially injurious measures.